I would like some information on how to begin and maintain a compost pile. Do you have one? I would like to know how best to use the compost, as well.
| Create a Free Account or Sign In to connect and share in green living and alternative energy forum discussions. |
17
Compost Pile
Started by Sarah C., Mar 11 2012 11:28 PM
46 replies to this topic
#2
Posted 12 March 2012 - 04:09 AM
Keep a tightly covered bucket or can in your kitchen for daily scraps-add to pile as needed.
If you have cats/dogs-fence it off somehow, so they won't defecate in there.
Veggie-fruit scraps/paper (shredded newspapers or shredded clean paper from the office)
(some) coffee grounds/tea bags (but not too much) egg shells/nut shells, oyster shells/shrimp skins.-
no cheese or meat products or bones. (Attracts rats/flies/maggots.)
No cooked foods/citrus rinds. Banana peels are ok.
No fireplace ashes. No walnut leaves or nuts.
Cover new additions with soil to keep it from smelling.
Moisten occasionally, but not wet. The pile should be able to drain properly, not sitting in a low area that
would keep it wet for too long. Soon after a rain, loosen pile-turn again.
Aeration is key to a good pile, so turn at least weekly if possible.
I don't know where you live, but if you're in a location that has high heat/sun in the summer, locate the
pile in partial shade otherwise the sun/heat will kill all the good bacteria/insects needed for the pile.
But the pile needs sunlight to cook down, so location is vital.
(I start a new pile every year, with some of the leftovers from the old pile, to give the new location
a chance to reap the benefits but I did that because I started out years ago with hard clay soil.
Now, after years of composting, I have good, loamy soil. Moving the pile will depend on the size of your yard.)
You will probably want to consider some sort of fence around it so neighbors won't complain. But the pile
needs light and air, and easy access to turn the pile. Wire fencing, or old pallets can be used with an
area open for your access to it.
Turn the pile 7-10 days with a pitchfork or spade.
Try to have a combo of green and brown-fresh scraps from the kitchen, grass clippings, fallen leaves.
No chemicals. No weeds. (The seeds could take root, and you'd have a weed pile instead of a compost pile.)
Some small twigs ok, but keep branches to a minimum.
If you don't want to go the route of a pile, the diy box stores carry barrel tumblers that work well, or buy on-line.
You shouldn't have a "garbage" smell, but an odor of good earthy loam.
It could take 50-90 days or so to "cook" it down depending on conditions.
Shovel finished soil around bushes, trees or in an area where you may want to start a veggie garden.
You'll be amazed at how quickly your veggie food scraps turn into soil.
Best of luck. You'll love it.
More info here:
http://www.newsrevie...tent?oid=664545
http://www.azcentral...st0819tips.html
If you have cats/dogs-fence it off somehow, so they won't defecate in there.
Veggie-fruit scraps/paper (shredded newspapers or shredded clean paper from the office)
(some) coffee grounds/tea bags (but not too much) egg shells/nut shells, oyster shells/shrimp skins.-
no cheese or meat products or bones. (Attracts rats/flies/maggots.)
No cooked foods/citrus rinds. Banana peels are ok.
No fireplace ashes. No walnut leaves or nuts.
Cover new additions with soil to keep it from smelling.
Moisten occasionally, but not wet. The pile should be able to drain properly, not sitting in a low area that
would keep it wet for too long. Soon after a rain, loosen pile-turn again.
Aeration is key to a good pile, so turn at least weekly if possible.
I don't know where you live, but if you're in a location that has high heat/sun in the summer, locate the
pile in partial shade otherwise the sun/heat will kill all the good bacteria/insects needed for the pile.
But the pile needs sunlight to cook down, so location is vital.
(I start a new pile every year, with some of the leftovers from the old pile, to give the new location
a chance to reap the benefits but I did that because I started out years ago with hard clay soil.
Now, after years of composting, I have good, loamy soil. Moving the pile will depend on the size of your yard.)
You will probably want to consider some sort of fence around it so neighbors won't complain. But the pile
needs light and air, and easy access to turn the pile. Wire fencing, or old pallets can be used with an
area open for your access to it.
Turn the pile 7-10 days with a pitchfork or spade.
Try to have a combo of green and brown-fresh scraps from the kitchen, grass clippings, fallen leaves.
No chemicals. No weeds. (The seeds could take root, and you'd have a weed pile instead of a compost pile.)
Some small twigs ok, but keep branches to a minimum.
If you don't want to go the route of a pile, the diy box stores carry barrel tumblers that work well, or buy on-line.
You shouldn't have a "garbage" smell, but an odor of good earthy loam.
It could take 50-90 days or so to "cook" it down depending on conditions.
Shovel finished soil around bushes, trees or in an area where you may want to start a veggie garden.
You'll be amazed at how quickly your veggie food scraps turn into soil.
Best of luck. You'll love it.
More info here:
http://www.newsrevie...tent?oid=664545
http://www.azcentral...st0819tips.html
#3
Posted 12 March 2012 - 04:37 PM
My pile has stayed in the same location year after year because there is simply no other place for it. This works as well. One other comment to add is that if you mow your lawn, don't throw all the clippings on the compost pile because it doesn't tend maintain a good chemical balance and it can really slow down the processing rate of the pile. Instead, you keep the grass somewhere else and let it dry out some before adding some of it to the pile. That is how I have had success.
#6
Posted 13 March 2012 - 07:13 AM
Composting The Easy Way
Choose an isolated corner of your yard-a partially shady, sunny, well-drained, slightly sloping spot-for your compost heap. You can build a compost bin of wire mesh or wooden slats (one side removable) or leave your compost pile freestanding. In hot weather, compost may be garden-ready on roughly 6 weeks.
1. Pile compost makings near the bin: dead leaves, grass clippings, weeds, and such kitchen waste such as coffee grounds and fruit and vegetable peelings (no cooked foods or fat).
2. Stack the mixture in the bin in concave layers 5 to 10 inches deep. Wet each layer thoroughly, sprinkle the makings with several shovels of 10-10-10 fertilizer or horse manure, and add 2 inches of rich garden worm castings.
3. Turn the pile with a fork every other week ( or be lazy and don't, if you can wait a year for results!). Keep the pile wet. When the compost pile becomes crumbly brown, it's garden-ready!
Choose an isolated corner of your yard-a partially shady, sunny, well-drained, slightly sloping spot-for your compost heap. You can build a compost bin of wire mesh or wooden slats (one side removable) or leave your compost pile freestanding. In hot weather, compost may be garden-ready on roughly 6 weeks.
1. Pile compost makings near the bin: dead leaves, grass clippings, weeds, and such kitchen waste such as coffee grounds and fruit and vegetable peelings (no cooked foods or fat).
2. Stack the mixture in the bin in concave layers 5 to 10 inches deep. Wet each layer thoroughly, sprinkle the makings with several shovels of 10-10-10 fertilizer or horse manure, and add 2 inches of rich garden worm castings.
3. Turn the pile with a fork every other week ( or be lazy and don't, if you can wait a year for results!). Keep the pile wet. When the compost pile becomes crumbly brown, it's garden-ready!
#8
Posted 13 March 2012 - 07:22 PM
I just bought a compost bin at Costco for around $99. It is a huge barrel with a handle so I can spin it around every now and then. I wish I had the time to construct my own, but have been busy lately. It looks pretty easy to make. I am new to composting too and hope to use it on my garden soon.
#10
Posted 02 April 2012 - 06:29 AM
One thing I swear by is having two compost bins.
I'm lucky in that I have a garden big enough for this & I realise it's not for everyone.
But back in the day I noticed my compost wasn't going as well as I'd hoped - and adding more didn't help. Then I read a quick tip about not adding to a pile once it had started breaking down, and now I switch every half year or so.
Not groundbreaking but it may help you Sarah in the longer term.
I'm lucky in that I have a garden big enough for this & I realise it's not for everyone.
But back in the day I noticed my compost wasn't going as well as I'd hoped - and adding more didn't help. Then I read a quick tip about not adding to a pile once it had started breaking down, and now I switch every half year or so.
Not groundbreaking but it may help you Sarah in the longer term.
#11
Posted 02 April 2012 - 06:54 AM
Shortpoet-GTD, on 13 March 2012 - 04:15 PM, said:
I wholeheartedly disagree. Don't use chemicals of any kind in the compost pile.
10-10-10 fertilizer? No No No.
10-10-10 fertilizer? No No No.
#13
Posted 02 April 2012 - 09:43 AM
Nanatracyann, on 02 April 2012 - 06:54 AM, said:
That's why I also put that you can use "Horse Manure"...Always options, that's what so great about life in general...
That could be problematic as well. You don't know the health of that horse (or cow or chicken, if you use
their leavings.)
Better to leave it separate, cover it with some soil to keep the odors down and let it "cook" for a few weeks/months
depending on how hot the pile gets. You can to kill all pathogens.
Then you can mix it in with the compost pile.
"The best advice for gardeners concerned about vermicide residue is to compost fresh horse or cattle manure before using it, or to expose it thoroughly to sunshine.
The most effective way to compost fresh manure is to alternate layers of manure with dry straw, building a pile at least 2 to 3 feet tall.
Six weeks of composting should provide plenty of time for vermicides or antibiotics in the manure to degrade."
http://www.santacruz...ic-gardens.html
(Sorry for the small print but that's the way it copied.)
#14
Posted 02 April 2012 - 04:38 PM
We make our compost from oat or wheat straw bought as bales. Horse poo sourced from Horsey people who sell it on the sides of the road in plastic shopping bags and grass clippings. Using hay can be a pain as too many weeds can get through the compost process.
In a pile of say 1.5 metre/ 4foot square you put down a layer of straw 100mm/4inches thick ,4 bags of poo is spread over the top. Followed by generous handfulls of lawnmower clippings. Water it well and start again making many layers. Cover with plastic and this heap gets to 70C/158F after a couple of days. There is no need to turn this heap. It can be used after a week or two as is. Putting hot compost on the garden helps plant growth.
Using food scraps here has the disadvantage of attracting rats. Also whatever you do do not put diseased plant material in the heap. We introduced the fungal disease,onion white root rot (Sclerotium cepivorum)to our property from onions bought from a supermarket.
I'll have to right this up on the Forum sometime.
In a pile of say 1.5 metre/ 4foot square you put down a layer of straw 100mm/4inches thick ,4 bags of poo is spread over the top. Followed by generous handfulls of lawnmower clippings. Water it well and start again making many layers. Cover with plastic and this heap gets to 70C/158F after a couple of days. There is no need to turn this heap. It can be used after a week or two as is. Putting hot compost on the garden helps plant growth.
Using food scraps here has the disadvantage of attracting rats. Also whatever you do do not put diseased plant material in the heap. We introduced the fungal disease,onion white root rot (Sclerotium cepivorum)to our property from onions bought from a supermarket.
I'll have to right this up on the Forum sometime.
#15
Posted 03 April 2012 - 06:01 AM
I also recommend www.composting101.com for a great primer on the "science" of composting... there is an optimal ratio to shoot for of carbon to nitrogen when you compost to keep the process going efficiently.
Of course you CAN just throw everything you have waste wise in a pile and let it go to town... but you may find the pile becomes too smelly or too moist, etc. The composting 101 site has some great troubleshooting tips to help you learn about the process and how to recognize problems and correct them.
If one thing will discourage composting, it is a pile that stinks to high heaven! : )
Of course you CAN just throw everything you have waste wise in a pile and let it go to town... but you may find the pile becomes too smelly or too moist, etc. The composting 101 site has some great troubleshooting tips to help you learn about the process and how to recognize problems and correct them.
If one thing will discourage composting, it is a pile that stinks to high heaven! : )
(Exceptions are noted.)#18
Posted 16 May 2012 - 06:49 AM
I never heard of having to watch where the manure came from. If the animal is sick, what kind of effect would this have on the compost? And how would that effect the plants you are putting the mulch on? (I have to know how to explain it to my mom. lol)
Thanks so much for all the info here! I have a small family so I might look into getting one of the barrels that steph84 talked about. At least just to get started.
Thanks so much for all the info here! I have a small family so I might look into getting one of the barrels that steph84 talked about. At least just to get started.
#19
Posted 18 May 2012 - 02:58 AM
happyrocinante, on 16 May 2012 - 06:49 AM, said:
I never heard of having to watch where the manure came from. If the animal is sick, what kind of effect would this have on the compost? And how would that effect the plants you are putting the mulch on? (I have to know how to explain it to my mom. lol)
If "fresh" is used, pile it off separately so it can cook. Or use bagged manure's that have already been processed.
Issues from e-coli, listeria, salmonella-etc.have sickened many people.
More info here.
A step by step how-to on cow manure here.
#20
Posted 03 June 2012 - 11:16 AM
Great information here. Some opposing opinions, but good nevertheless. I would love to have my own compost, but would prefer not to keep it indoors. I live in an apartment so I only do simple pot planting at this point. One day, I will have my big outdoor garden, greenhouse, and compost pile!
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users
