Which is most energy efficient - setting your home central heating to 20 degrees celsius and having it come on and go off a couple of times a day (say two hours in the morning and four in the evening) or leaving your heating constantly on but at a lower temperature (say 17 degrees)? I've tried both and not noticed any real difference in how warm the house feels, but have no clue how it affects our fuel usage (we were using heating oil at the time, so it is not easy to monitor weekly or monthly usage).
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Should you leave your home heating on throughout the winter?
Started by duffield1, Nov 01 2011 12:57 AM
36 replies to this topic
#2
Posted 01 November 2011 - 04:07 PM
Well, I think that all depends on how much energy your heater needs to get started, as well as a few other variables. Just like a car, cruise control will get you better mileage than constantly decelerating and accelerating. However, you'd somehow have to factor in how long it takes for your house temp to drop below 20 C. and then how long the heater has to run to get back to 20 C. or whatever the kick on/off point is. Looks like you've got a math problem to work on.
#3
Posted 01 November 2011 - 06:19 PM
Another idea is to use a more efficient heater whenever possible or adapt your heating to your specific needs at a given time. We often use a small plug-in radiator instead of our full main heater (which actually is two main heaters- one for each half the apartment, and yes, that's weird, but it's how they do it here) if the temperature isn't too cold and we are staying in one room most of the day.
I find that the electric bill is far lower when we do that.
I find that the electric bill is far lower when we do that.
#4
Posted 02 November 2011 - 04:02 AM
Due to money constraints, i rarely ever have the heating on during winter, or at all.
What's wrong with putting on an extra layer of clothing? Or an extra blanket at night, that's how i deal with the colder winter months, keeps me warm, saves money, and helps the environment, win-win situation as far as i can see.
What's wrong with putting on an extra layer of clothing? Or an extra blanket at night, that's how i deal with the colder winter months, keeps me warm, saves money, and helps the environment, win-win situation as far as i can see.
#5
Posted 02 November 2011 - 04:20 AM
Germs, on 02 November 2011 - 04:02 AM, said:
Due to money constraints, i rarely ever have the heating on during winter, or at all.
What's wrong with putting on an extra layer of clothing? Or an extra blanket at night, that's how i deal with the colder winter months, keeps me warm, saves money, and helps the environment, win-win situation as far as i can see.
What's wrong with putting on an extra layer of clothing? Or an extra blanket at night, that's how i deal with the colder winter months, keeps me warm, saves money, and helps the environment, win-win situation as far as i can see.
I suspect you live somewhere that does not have sub-zero temperatures.
When I lived in New Orleans, I could put on an extra sweater or use a blanket- that is fine for winter temperatures of 10-20 C.
When you live above about the 37th-38th parallel and the temperature is hovering at -10 C, however, that is not a very realistic suggestion. I'm not willing to risk actually literally freezing to death to save a little energy! Not to mention that if your indoor pipes freeze, you must live without water.
#6
Posted 02 November 2011 - 04:27 AM
I have no choice but to leave my heating on for the majority of the winter - because it is soooo cold and I have young children. I have to worry about the financial implications of doing so when I get the bill. I do wish I could avoid this from an environmental standpoint though.
#7
Posted 02 November 2011 - 06:12 AM
I'm in sunny North Yorkshire in the UK, so can appreciate those who say they need heating - we live in an old rented farmouse, and we're not even allowed to double insulate the loft, which is a shame, as it can get very cold.
As to wearing more jumpers, we do that as a matter of course anyway, but my youngest daughter (age 2 and a half) will not sleep under a duvet - I cover her up several times each night - and so we need to keep her room at a reasonable temperature. Also, the house pipes burst due to frost damage last winter, so I am more keen than ever to keep the house at a good ambient temperature.
Tom, I love your suggestion about the calculations, but wouldn't have a clue where to start! Anyone got any ideas? The temperature in the house is so variable depending on the outside weather - on sunny days, our windows amplify the heat so it warms up quickly, but on cloudy days - regardless of the outdoor temperature - we really miss the sun's heat!
As to wearing more jumpers, we do that as a matter of course anyway, but my youngest daughter (age 2 and a half) will not sleep under a duvet - I cover her up several times each night - and so we need to keep her room at a reasonable temperature. Also, the house pipes burst due to frost damage last winter, so I am more keen than ever to keep the house at a good ambient temperature.
Tom, I love your suggestion about the calculations, but wouldn't have a clue where to start! Anyone got any ideas? The temperature in the house is so variable depending on the outside weather - on sunny days, our windows amplify the heat so it warms up quickly, but on cloudy days - regardless of the outdoor temperature - we really miss the sun's heat!
#8
Posted 02 November 2011 - 01:20 PM
With winter heating, it is most efficient to have the heat cycle and to heat the place to the desired temperature for only the times when you need it and go cooler than comfortable when you are not there. The rate that a home loses heat depends on the difference between the indoor and outdoor temperature so the cooler you can set the internal thermostat temperature and still recover for your desired times of comfort, the more energy you will save than simply setting the temperature to a fixed number. This is a result of the physical law of thermodynamics.
#9
Posted 04 November 2011 - 08:50 PM
Duffield1, can you wrap the pipes so they have more insulation in cold weather and are at less risk of bursting?
When you say leaving the heating on, you mean leaving the power to the heater on, right? It won't actually start heating until the temp falls to a certain point?
If that's the case, set it to the lower temp. Once the house reaches that temperature, the heater would cycle off (even though it's still powered up), and save money. Having to manually turn it on to a higher temperature could mean some very cold times as heat escapes. If it's a really cold day, those few hotter hours aren't really going to help.
When you say leaving the heating on, you mean leaving the power to the heater on, right? It won't actually start heating until the temp falls to a certain point?
If that's the case, set it to the lower temp. Once the house reaches that temperature, the heater would cycle off (even though it's still powered up), and save money. Having to manually turn it on to a higher temperature could mean some very cold times as heat escapes. If it's a really cold day, those few hotter hours aren't really going to help.
#11
Posted 05 November 2011 - 06:11 PM
I feel so lucky to live in a well-insulated apartment with efficient forced air heat. I keep it really low and turn it up when it gets too cold, even with layers on, and it doesn't take long to heat a room up and it stays warm for a long time. I keep blinds and and drapes closed at night and when temperatures get to 40 F or less to help keep heat in, which helps even with the storm windows we have. I also shove small rugs against the bottom of the front door to prevent drafts and keep doors closed to rooms that aren't being used.
#12
Posted 05 November 2011 - 07:45 PM
Well I actually do not; even though I live in a place where I do not have to pay heat. We always turn our stuff off and the great thing is we can set the temperature exact so that it turns off and on at a certain temperature. The only time we have the heat on is usually at night, because it gets a little chilly, but we always set it at a great temperature so that it can just go off instead of staying on all night and in the day time we turn it off. No we do not keep our heat on all winter long. I think that you should just eep your heating on if you need it. I mean if you feel you need it then use it, but it just depends on where you live and how your home is.
#13
Posted 06 November 2011 - 04:27 PM
Liv, on 02 November 2011 - 04:27 AM, said:
I have no choice but to leave my heating on for the majority of the winter - because it is soooo cold and I have young children. I have to worry about the financial implications of doing so when I get the bill. I do wish I could avoid this from an environmental standpoint though.
richer. What a deal!
Seriously though. I had my house done back in 07, and I went from $140. a month/winter bills heat to a little
over $30. They used recycled blown-in newspapers.
Until you can get that done or DIY/ check all your nooks/crannies. Pipes coming in, vents, electrical sockets.
Those little drafts carry all your heating out and drain your wallet too. (Btw-if you do use expanding foam,
wear gloves! That stuff does not come off for weeks.
#14
Posted 07 November 2011 - 12:58 PM
I agree that finding and eliminating the leaks is a good investment for the pocket book and environment collectively. Every year, I spend a few hours going around the windows and doors to feel for drafts. If it is really cold, you can feel the cool air coming in. I then tape the areas to cover them temporarily and to mark them until the weather warms up and I can seal them more thoroughly. It is amazing that each year I have done it, I have found something new. They are getting less but new leaks seem to form over the years. Also watch for fireplaces, whether gas or wood because a lot of heat goes out them. In some designs, you can see outside so you know where the heat is going.
#15
Posted 07 November 2011 - 04:50 PM
I live in a house that is 100 years old, without insulation in the walls, and the owner is not going to entertain the idea. So it is cold as...in the winer and hot as whatever in the summer. I have tried leaving the heat on a certain temperature in the winter, and when it gets colder the heat runs harder, so? I have also tried cutting it off and on, and that was a disaster, with the factor of reheating the house increasing the cost. I hate the winter, don't want to move, so it's grin and pay for it. Cheers.
#16
Posted 07 November 2011 - 05:47 PM
We bought a house 4 years ago with a ground source heat pump and didn't find out until our 2nd winter that its most efficient when you set it and forget it. Once we figured that out our winter bills dropped dramatically.
This is the only place we've lived where it made more sense to set it and forget it. We've had places with boiler heat and forced air and have always set it differently at night and when we are not home.
This is the only place we've lived where it made more sense to set it and forget it. We've had places with boiler heat and forced air and have always set it differently at night and when we are not home.
#18
Posted 07 November 2011 - 07:25 PM
I think the key is to get as much efficiency as you can. The suggestion about putting rugs down and putting rolled up towels or specially-made door cozies along the bottom of each door is a great one. It lets you keep the temperature a bit lower and still feels warm in the room because it eliminates drafts. Even if you live in an apartment or a home that you don't own and cannot put insulation in, you can always do little things to make your home space more energy-efficient. While things like that seem little, over the long run, I think you'll save money and energy.Thick curtains over any big windows is another way to insulate without breaking a rental agreement. You can even put thick curtains on a wall if necessary.
Of course, dressing in a few more layers helps, too. In some climates, it might be enough on its own, while in others it can just be another little contributor that lets you set your thermostat a degree or two lower instead of raising it.
Now if anyone can let me know how to ensure that a two year old KEEPS all those extra layers on, I'd be happy to hear it. For some reason, mine thinks socks are an abomination even when the hardwood floors are ice cold!
Of course, dressing in a few more layers helps, too. In some climates, it might be enough on its own, while in others it can just be another little contributor that lets you set your thermostat a degree or two lower instead of raising it.
Now if anyone can let me know how to ensure that a two year old KEEPS all those extra layers on, I'd be happy to hear it. For some reason, mine thinks socks are an abomination even when the hardwood floors are ice cold!
#19
Posted 09 November 2011 - 02:13 PM
As a renter of an old house, you can also benefit by putting the heat shrink plastic around the windows. This provides both an air buffer and stops any leaks in the window itself. I have done this in a few old houses that I lived when I rented. While I think you will only break even on the costs of the shrink wrap over a couple years, it can sure make the place more comfortable rather than living with drafts. The other trick is to put a towel at the bottom of leaky doors to block that air flow.
#20
Posted 09 November 2011 - 06:40 PM
Insulate and seal the infiltrations. If you don't have newer vinyl low E or E2 windows, get storm windows for the outside. If that's too expensive, seal the inside with clear plastic. I had friends do that in southeast Idaho when the temps routinely got to 25-35F below zero. We'd see the Snake River freeze.
It's best to keep the heat on at a manageable level to keep your pipes from freezing. Up to each person whether to keep the temps lower and put on clothes or turn up the thermostat. It also depends on what type of heat you utilize. Cheap hydro electric with a heat pump makes it easier on both comfort and the wallet than propane from an 80% (or less) furnace.
Personally, I miss the wood stove I had in southeast Idaho. We kept the home warm and turned off the cable electric all winter. The wood we burnt was pine, dead standing from the beetle infestation. Had to drive 100 miles one way to get the stuff each summer. However... my cost at that time was $65 a cord. I'd burn about four to five cords between November and March each year. My friends without wood heat paid $180 to $200 a month forelectric heat and that was then electricity cost about five cents a KWH from Idaho Power.
To the OP, I keep my heat pump setbacks within three degrees. Works better and more economical . If I ran gas heat I'd use bigger setbacks, say five to seven degrees. I used bigger setbacks initially with my heat pump and found I saved money using a smaller setback.
It's best to keep the heat on at a manageable level to keep your pipes from freezing. Up to each person whether to keep the temps lower and put on clothes or turn up the thermostat. It also depends on what type of heat you utilize. Cheap hydro electric with a heat pump makes it easier on both comfort and the wallet than propane from an 80% (or less) furnace.
Personally, I miss the wood stove I had in southeast Idaho. We kept the home warm and turned off the cable electric all winter. The wood we burnt was pine, dead standing from the beetle infestation. Had to drive 100 miles one way to get the stuff each summer. However... my cost at that time was $65 a cord. I'd burn about four to five cords between November and March each year. My friends without wood heat paid $180 to $200 a month forelectric heat and that was then electricity cost about five cents a KWH from Idaho Power.
To the OP, I keep my heat pump setbacks within three degrees. Works better and more economical . If I ran gas heat I'd use bigger setbacks, say five to seven degrees. I used bigger setbacks initially with my heat pump and found I saved money using a smaller setback.
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